🔗 Share this article

When assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest place securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary achievement.